Reptiles

SNAKES – BASIC CARE FOR YOU
*Always consult a specialist veterinary practioner for in depth care and health issues.
    Housing Requirements
1. Terrarium/cage Size dependant on snake and future growth. Largest size is 900mm*1200mm or get one custom built
2. Light Globe Any globe that gives direct light but does not get hot to the touch. You do not want your snake to get burnt!
3. Water bowl Wide and deep enough for your snake to completely submerge itself comfortably.
4. Thermometer To check that cage temperature is not too high or low-comfortable range is 24-29 degrees celsius.
5. Heat Pad Should not be larger than a quarter of the size of your cage AND depends on the size of your snake.
You do not want to overheat your snake nor keep it too cold because it cannot curl comfortably on the pad.
6. Driftwood A climbing aide is good to keep the snake active. It aides is shedding. Also a hollowed log is excellent
for hiding, which snakes prefer in hibernation.
7. Substrates A variey is available- a combination is best to keep the snake stimulated, closer to a natural environment
to help with shedding & allround comfort in its variety.
Food & Water
1. Mice/Rats -The size and quantity of The mouse/rate dependant on size and age of snake.
-Hibernation-should it be in hibernation, your snake can survive a maximum of 3 months without food. This is
reliant on the fact that your snake is in good health and was feeding often before hibernation.
-Feed weekly- keep your snake on aregular feeding schedule – it also makes it more sociable for general
handling.
2. Water -Clean water every 2nd to 3rd day unless faeces are in the water- you need to clean immediately and replace!
-Always supply so the snake can bath to shed as well.
Substrates
1. Fake plastic grass/Astroturf
Great as your full placement in the cage, it is easy to remove and wash- never use detergents or bleach but simply hot water and let it dry
in the full sun. The Astroturf provides an underlying base for all the substrates below.
2. Corncob, 3 Eucalyptus, 4. Reptile Sand, 5. Bark chips
All substrates aide in shedding and encouraging a healthy and variety filled environment for your snake. We encourage you to try out a
a variety of these with your snake. You may find it has a preference for some rather than others.
Other
Snakes need to shed, as they are growing their body. Usually they shed in one piece.They need access to water and when shedding
require higher humidity in their cage to encourage shedding. ALWAYS check that their eye caps and tips pf the tail have shed properly.
If they are struggling bathe them in luke warm water and purchase some SHED ASSIST. Remember when shedding, snakes are
generally uncomfortable and will not be receptive to much handling nor wanting to feed.
CHAMELEONS – BASIC CARE FOR YOU

*Always consult a specialist veterinary practioner for in depth care and health issues.
    Housing Requirements
1. Cage Wood with mesh outer, should be height based.Chameleons need to climb.
2. Light Globe UV light is essential for good health, min of 6 hrs/day.UV5 Spiral or Tube fitted to length of cage.
3. Heat Globe Needed for essential warmth if no access to direct sunlight. SUMMER- Sunglo. WINTER-Infra red.
4. Thermometer To check that cage temperature is not too high or too low-comfortable range is 25-30 degrees celsius.
5. Food Bowl/ Deep enough ad wide to house crickets, with a little ladder to encourage chameleon to climb to prey.
Calcium powder Powder is good for general health, it also makes the crickets more visible!
6. Spray bottle/ Chameleons need to be sprayed at least 3 times a day to help with shedding. Also they will drink the water
Mister off their bodies.An automated small mister would be ideal.
7. Climbing feature Chameleons need to climb, so a climbing frame in wood and plastic plants would be ideal.
Food & Water
1. Crickets / Worms The size and quantity of the crickets is dependant on the size and age of the chameleon.
Roaches / Flies You will need to feed once a day/preferably lunchtime.Give your ADULTS calcium every 3rd day.
BABIES need calcium every meal.
Crickets are generally the easist to purchase but if you can purchase other protein sources- give it a try?
More protein variety is better for your chameleon.
2. Vegetables Small cut up or shredded veggies should be added to their diet from the start.
3. Water Chameleons do not generally drink out of bowls but have been seen to do so.They source their water
off the cage or the decorations.Spray your chameleon 3/day with clean water.
When shedding and in winter spray more frequently. In winter the air is drier. Therefore an automated
mister would be ideal.
Permitted Vegetables/Fruit
Cucumber, Carrots, All squashes, Peas, Green Beans, Broccoli
Coriander, Rosemary, Fennel, Mint, Parsley
Apricots, Apples, Mango, Melon, Raspberries, Peaches,Grapes
DO NOT FEED!!
Spinach, Avocado, Butter Lettuce, Cabbage
Check if feeding any outside plants/flowers – that they were not sprayed with pesticide.
Other
Chameleons like climbing, make sure they have a vine like structure and pack the vines so they can access their basking light. You
may consider building a custom made cage if you have the space.
Chameleons like a warm tropical(humid) environment and enjoy basking in direct sunlight- however be careful to not overheat their
cage. NOTE: when they are warm- they move incredibly fast- so keep a good eye on them if in the garden!
BEARDED DRAGONS – BASIC CARE FOR YOU

*Always consult a specialist veterinary practioner for in depth care and health issues.
    Housing Requirements
1. Terrarium/cage Size dependant on dragon and future growth. Largest size is 900mm*1200mm or get one custom buit
2. Light Globe UV light is essential for good health & needs to be on for a min. of 6hrs/day.UV10 Spiral or Tube fitted to
    length of cage.
3. Heat Globe Needed for essential warmth if no access to direct sunlight. SUMMER- Sunglo. WINTER-Infra red.
4. Thermometer To check that cage temperature is not too high or too low-comfortable range is 24-29 degrees celsius.
5. Food Bowl/ For veggies and pellets.
Calcium powder Powder is good for general health;NB: BABIES need it every meal; ADULTS-every 3rd day.
6. Spray bottle/ Dragons enjoy being sprayed occassionally. Also they will drink the droplets.
Water bowl Dragons enjoy lying in water, so a bowl that is not too deep, ie not higher than their stomach-where they
can partially submerge themselves would be ideal.
7. Substrates A variey is available- a combination is best for your dragon , the closer to a natural environment
to help with shedding & allround comfort in its variety.
Food & Water
1. Crickets / Worms The size and quantity of the crickets is dependant on the size and age of the dragon.
Roaches You will need to feed once a day/preferably lunchtime.Give them calcium every day, sprinkle this over the
crickets. There are also other protein sources- roaches /mealworms (live & dried).
More protein variety is better for your chameleon.
2. Vegetables Small cut up or shredded veggies should be added to their diet from the start.
3. Water Dragons do not generally drink out of bowls but have been seen to do so.They source their water
off the cage or the decorations.Spray your dragon at least 2 a day.
When shedding and in winter spray more frequently. In winter the air is drier. Therefore an automated
mister would be ideal.
4. Pellets Beardie pellets should be given in the evening or morning to encourage varied diet.
Permitted Vegetables/Fruit
Cucumber, Carrots, All squashes, Peas, Green Beans, Broccoli
Coriander, Rosemary, Fennel, Mint, Parsley
Apricots, Apples, Mango, Melon, Raspberries, Peaches,Grapes
DO NOT FEED!!
Spinach, Avocado, Butter Lettuce, Cabbage
Check if feeding any outside plants/flowers – that they were not sprayed with pesticide.
Other
Dragons like a warm environment and like to bask in direct sunlight. However be careful to not overheat their cage.NOTE: when they are
warm- they move incredibly fast- so keep a good eye on them if in the garden!
Dragons like to relaxing most of the time, give them some driftwood to lie and climb on.When shedding give them a lukewarm bath to
help.We also have shed assist. Keep them on a varied diet and ensure they have adequate protein and calcium.
NOTE: an often dark coloured and “lazy” dragon is a sign of illness or poor diet. Remember to deworm your dragon a min every year!
SPIDERS – BASIC CARE FOR YOU

*Always consult a specialist veterinary practioner for in depth care and health issues.
    Housing Requirements
1. Terrarium/tank Min. size must be 3 times the length&width of your spider. Consider height as well to ensure a climbing element.
2. Forceps To feed the spider and clean the cage- makes it safer and easier to handle the spider.
3. Thermometer To check that cage temperature is not too high or low-comfortable range is 22-30 degrees celsius.
4. Heat Pad/Strip Should not be too large and should be used in winter. Slings are susceptible to extreme cold.
5. Hide For climbing but also for burrowing. Allows them to relax and feel safe.
6. Spray bottle For misting and keeping your substrates moist.
7. Substrates Peat moss,vermiculite and potting soil.
Food & Water
1. Crickets -Feed 1 to 2 crickets once or twice a week dependant also on size. Please watch the crickets as they can
attempt to feed on your spider if it is moulting. In that case it is best to crush the crickets head to prevent this.
-All food not eaten after 24 hours must be removed from the tank.
2. Water Do not put in a water bowl as spiders are known to drown.
-Spray the substrate at least once a week. Also water gel can be used , which you can scatter around the tank.
-Keeping your spider hydrated is important for moulting. Do not over water!
Handling & Moulting
1. Handling
Spiders are fragile creatures and if dropped from a height can die. Always handle them sitting on the ground and on a flat surface.
Find out as much about your specific species when purchasing it.
2. Moulting
Spiders turn on their back when moulting- DO NOT TURN IT UPRIGHT. They do not wish to be disturbed. After a completed moult the body
takes a while to harden- handling should be avoided. Also the spider will not wish to feed during moulting.
Housing
Spiders are nocturnal and therefore placing them in areas where they will be in direct sunlight must be avoided. No windowsill or under a
direct lamp. The heating pad/strip should not be placed directly on the tank but some 2- 5 cms away from the sides.Do NOT place the
heating pad underneath the tank- the spider cannot escape the heat if too warm and will die.
Spiders need a great deal of substrate for burrowing. Arboreal spiders need height, terrestrial spiders need floor space.
Spiders should be kept on their own as they are cannabalistic.